October 2008 Loop Journal

October 1, Wednesday. Uncasville, CT to Albany, NY

"Oh look! I see a patch of blue sky above."

"You’d better have your glasses checked."

Al and I have mixed feelings. On the one hand we are reluctant to leave the comfortable home we love and our kittys, Fluffy and Abby, but on the other hand we know adventures await as we take to the road to see the USA in our Chevrolet.

One last rub of Fluffy’s tummy and we are out the door. It rained last night and our front walk is filled with slugs. I have to hold my suitcase up and step carefully around these creatures as I make my way down the front walk.

Al starts out with the driving and soon it is raining again. All the way to Waterbury the rain pours down sometimes so heavy we can hardly see the road.

Just before we leave Conn. on Route 84 I spot a clearing in the sky.

"Oh look!" I exclaim. "I see a patch of blue sky above."

"You’d better have your glasses checked," Al grumbles.

But sure enough the little blue patch grows larger, the day brightens up a small measure and the rain stops.

We head north in New York along Route 22 and before too long we arrive in Pawling, NY.

We take a country road ride to the next town, Patterson, and stop at a delightful park with a pond. We eat our picnic lunch on the picnic table overlooking the pond.

After lunch we walk about the park and I have a great swing while Al rides the small digger in the sand pit. I remember Wood Park in Leonia, NJ where I enjoyed the swings as a child. It brings back good memories. Back on the road we drive to the Peale Center for Positive Thinking in Pawling where we are met by Angela Adams and given a tour of the center.

The founder of this center is Norman Vincent Peale who has inspired millions of people with his sermons and writings. I have been a prayerline volunteer for the Center for eight years and I am thrilled to finally see the Center. Lemuel my new mentor at the Center greets me and introduces me to other staff.

I take my time to visit the exhibits of Dr. Peale and his wife Ruth and also the Holy Land Museum.

I am so grateful to have the opportunity to see this wonderful outreach ministry.

Afterwards we drive on to Albany where we are spending the night at the Econo Lodge. We have dinner at the Buca Restaurant next door and enjoy a good linguine dinner with shrimp, mussels and calamari.

I am ready for a good nights sleep.

 

October 2, Albany, NY

"Mother, open up the windows!"

What a full day this has been. I struggle to remember all we have seen and done. Taking notes during the day in my notebook sure helps me to remember at the end of the day.

After breakfast in our motel this morning I take a walk outside. I notice a man wearing a slogan on his tee shirt that matches the bumper sticker on his car. The quote reads: "Do what you can with what you have where you are." I tell him I agree with his slogans and I do.

This morning was spend visiting the Erie Canal and observing firsthand the fascinating operation of the locks and passages system. This is in Waterford, NY just north of Albany where the Hudson River and the Mohawk River come together. We climb up to Lock #2 and are greeted by the lock keeper. I think he is glad to have someone to talk to because he explains what he does and how he does it in great detail. We learn a lot from him especially as there are two sailboats heading east through the lock. We can observe the whole process of entering the lock, the great wall doors swinging shut behind them, the boats holding on to the sides of the lock, the water rushing out down below, the sinking down of the boats as the water leaves the lock and the great doors opening for them to pass through at the lower level. It is a goose bumpy moment for me and I am not sure why. It is just one of those moments.

After that Al and I follow the Mohawk River scenic byway in our car ending in Schenectady. It is time for lunch so we find "Mike’s Hot Dogs" and give it a try. It is a real gutsy place and we sit on stools at a long counter. It is an experience…not bad…very different from most eateries.

Al has a sausage sandwich and I have a grilled chicken sandwich.

Schenectady has an historic section called the "Stockade" and it is a unique neighborhood of tall row houses dating back to the 1600’s! We park our car and walk the old streets marveling at the old architecture. We both are reluctant to move on.

As we drive through Albany we pass many old brownstone buildings.

Our goal for the afternoon is meeting cousin Laura Olf who lives in Castleton. Laura, age 87, is Al’s father’s first cousin. She is the daughter of Anita Stone who is the sister of Albert Schober, Sr.’s mother. The best I can figure out is that she is Al’s first cousin, once removed. Anyway we are excited to meet her and her family.

Our first minutes with her in her home are dramatic, to say the least.

Laura is small in stature and when she greets us at her front door she stare up at us, speechless. We must look like giants to her!

"Are you Laura Olf?" I ask.
"I am," she answers hesitantly.
Silence.
"I am Maren Schober and this is Al Schober."
Silence.
"Oh, come on in!" She overcomes her shock and lets us in.

Laura lives in a lovely one level home with a stairway leading up to a bedroom loft.

Right away Laura lights a fire in her living room fireplace while we still have our jackets on. She asks Al to help her and the next thing we know the living room is filling with smoke as the smoke alarm begins the most piercing shriek.

Just then the front door opens and Laura’s daughter Bonnie comes in.

"Mother, what is going on here?! Open the windows! So we all rush around opening doors and windows to let the smoke out. Al tries to disconnect the smoke alarm. "It is hard-wired," he says. "I can’t do it."

In through the door comes Laura’s son Glen. He is Al’s second cousin. Glen uses a step stool to reach the alarm, takes off the cover and gives the wire a yank. The alarm ends. The smoke clears out, we shut the doors and windows and calm down.

We sit down at the dining room table and Glen is nice enough to serve us tea with cheese and crackers and home made pastries while Laura shares memories she has of her family. I tape record her stories as I know Al’s sister Paula will want to hear them too.

Laura’s great grandfather Peter MacDougall owned a clipper ship. One night out on his ship, he saw a vision of a woman on the sail! He did not know who the woman was and the vision soon disappeared. It was such a strange experience that he recorded the incident in the ship’s log. When he got back to shore and to his home he found out that his wife had died the very same time he saw the vision of the woman on his sail!

That is just one of the unique stories Laura told us.

Glen Olf and his fiancé Patty take us out to dinner at an Italian restaurant were we enjoy a delicious meal. It is hard to say good by to our cousins and Laura asks us to come back next year. We would love to visit them again.

 

October 3, Albany to Ticonderoga

"Did you know it was going to be so beautiful?"
"No."

Our goal today is simply to head north on Route 4, the scenic byway that follows the Hudson River. We set out in the rain and make our first stop at the "Saratoga National Historical Park and Visitor Center." We are the first visitors to enter the door at 9:00 a.m. and a guide is proud to explain to us that this spot is the turning point of the American Revolution. A movie explains further how the American troops defeated an advancing British army in October of 1777.

It stops raining as we continue to head north on Route 4 to the Schuyler House which is closed except on week-ends. The house was the home of Philip Schuyler and visited by George Washington.

 

 

 

 

In Glens Falls we decide to follow the signs to the town of Lake George. I have heard that the town and lake are beautiful but nothing prepares me for the wonder and beauty of Lake George as it spreads out before us deep blue at the foot of a blue mountain range. Both Al and I are awestruck when we see the lake from the beach. There are just no words to describe the beauty of the mountain lake, but our pictures help.

We drive part way around the lake and then turn back and park on the main street of this resort town called Lake George. We stroll through the riverside park and poke into some shops on main street. I am told we have to drive up Prospect Hill Mountain Road for a full panoramic view- which we do. Once again the beauty of the lake and surroundings from the mountain top are breathtaking!

It is hard to leave Lake George, but we do. We drive on to the town of Whitehall and visit Skene Manor an old Gothic style stone house. It looks down on the Champlain canal and the town.

Our final stop of the day was is Ticonderoga. We are ready for bed after a long wonderful day on the road.

 

 

Oct 4, Ticonderoga to Saranac Lake

"Yes, I know just where John Kiehl lived. I met his son when his wife sold their house in town."

This morning Al and I have breakfast in the greatest place. It is nothing fancy, just very American. We drive downtown and have our meal in "Burleigh’s Luncheonette". It takes you back to the fifties with its décor and music. This morning men and women sit at the counter bar stools while Al and I have eggs and bacon at a booth. We all fall into conversation with each other and it feels like we are all family. A good feeling.

Many slogans are taped to the wall my favorites being:

"If you are grouchy, irritable or just plain mean there will be a $10 charge for putting up with you."

Another says:

"I can only please one person a day. Today is not your day. Tomorrow doesn’t look good either."

After breakfast we drive up to the top of Mt. Defiance for a panoramic view of the Lake Champlain valley and Ft Ticonderoga. It is a stunning view and a good way to start the day.

Fort Ticonderoga is just down the road so we drive there. We have to wait for hundreds of boy scouts to parade past our car before we can park! Today is Boy Scout Camporee and they are all over. Three thousand of them are expected by the end of the day.

Jeff Burns is our guide at the Fort and we learn a lot of history about the French building the Fort during the French and Indian war and the battles fought there by the French, British and Americans to retain control of the land.

 

 

 

Following that our plan was to drive north along the shore of Lake Champlain and pick up the Adirondack trail. When I look at the map I see we will be passing through the town of Willsboro.

Willsboro. The name brings back a flood of memories from my past of my Uncle John and his family, and family home in Willsboro. Uncle John Kiehl was my father’s older brother. His sons Tom and John F. are my first cousins. I remember visiting in their Willsboro home as a child but I do not remember where they lived exactly. I have no hope of visiting the old home.

When we get to town I ask Al to stop so I can visit the Willsboro Heritage Center. Inside I tell the curator (whose name is Charlie Lustig) that my Uncle John Kiehl used to live there.

"John Kiehl?" he asked. "I know just where he lived! He lived out on the Point. I met his son when John’s wife sold the house. There is a small log cabin on the property that was discovered inside a barn. It was lived in 200 years ago by a pioneer family named Adsit. The Adsit family raised 14 children in the cabin. Edna Kiehl sold the cabin to Willsboro so we could display the cabin to the public."

You can imagine my joy at learning where John Kiehl used to live.

Charlie gave us directions and Al and I drive out there. The Kiehl house was sold to the Clarke family. Although a car sits in the driveway, no one is at home. I can easily see through the front picture window into the large living room that I remember so well. I am very happy that I see this family home.

In the phone book we discover that a George Kiehl lives in Willsboro! Who is George Kiehl? I have to find out. We may be family as my father was Robert Kiehl.

Tonight we are staying at the Best Western Motel in Saranac Lake in the Adirondack Mountains. It is beautiful here in the mountains.

 

October 5 Day 5 Saranac Lake to Ithaca

Today we drive through Adirondack State Park which is beautiful despite the cloudy and oft times rainy day. We stop along the way to visit the Blue Mountain Lake Museum which is well worth the price of admission.

The museum houses many buildings with exhibits in boat building, and the wood furnishings in the Adirondack rustic cabins and houses. The early wood furnishings are really incredible in design.

 

 

 

One of the outdoor exhibits today is Lis Masen and her woven, table mats, table top rugs, hats and scarves. They are so colorful and beautiful. I tell her about my cousin Mary Gordon who does weaving in her home in Rhode Island. Lis is Danish and we talked about my Danish name Maren. Lis thinks it is an older Danish name used in Funen literature.

The Adirondack Park is full of little towns and lakes you can see as you drive along the highway.

 

 

 

After leaving the Park we take the Thruway from Utica to Seneca Falls, then drive along the Cayuga scenic byway. Cayuga is one of the beautiful finger lakes in New York and it is so nice to drive along the lake. All in all it has been another great day.

 

 

 

October 6, Ithaca to Niagara Falls

"I’d better look for a Catholic Church with a gift shop. I need to buy some rosary beads."

After short stops in Elmira and Corning, we take a good country drive to Niagara Falls. Route 63 is a winding road past red barns, old farmhouses, a wildlife refuge and cows grazing in pastures. It is very peaceful and soothing. We need that for the frenzied hours that lay ahead of us.

At the start of our drive Al, remembering the K-turn I did the day before as we approached Ithaca, says jokingly to me, "I’d better look for a Catholic Church with a gift shop. I need to buy some rosary beads and a bag of St. Christopher medals."

Nice guy. Such confidence he has in my driving! Al and I do take turns with the driving and that helps a lot. We use a road map, our AAA guide book and the GPS. When Al navigates, he sits in the passenger seat with his laptop computer and tells me where to go! When it is my turn to navigate, I use the road map and tell him where to go! We do get along fine and any negative remarks are always done in a joking manner.

Yesterday morning before we set off in the car we bowed our heads and thanked God for this trip. We ask Him to lead and guide us where He wants us to go and we ask for His safety and protection from all harms. It is nice to have each other as travel companions, but it is far greater to know God is with us as well guiding us to see this beautiful country of ours.

We first stop at the Soaring Museum in Elmira. We want to see the exhibits of the gliders but unfortunately or fortunately depending on the way you look at it, the museum does not open until 10 a.m. and we are there at 9 a.m. Glider rides are offered during the day but I am sure we would not have taken one of those rides. It would have been fun to take a similated ride. Another time.

We make another stop at Lockport where the Erie Canal locks are operating. It is fascinating to see a boat go through the lock system and to see the locks fill with water from Lake Erie and then drain as the boats move on.

We arrive in Niagara Falls, NY at 3:15 p.m. Al spots the visitors center and we go in to ask a couple of questions. From here on the rest of the day and evening goes at a frantic pace. The kind lady advises us to take the bus tour of the Canadian side that leaves in half an hour!

"Here is what you will see."

"It looks good to us."

"Do you have a place to stay the night?"

"No."

"I can help you with that."

"We need to use a bathroom."

"You can use my private one."

Before you know it, she books us into the Hampton Inn at a good discount rate, sells us the tour ticket and gives us directions to the Inn.

We fly out the door and drive to the Inn. We make a hasty check in at the front desk and then the tour bus arrives! Unloading our suitcases to our room would have to come later.

"We jump into the bus and we are off with 12 other tourists from different parts of the country, one couple from England and one couple from Denmark. Our guide is Indian with a thick but understandable accent.

The first stop is at the Canadian-American border where we need to show our passports. One lady does not have a passport, but they accept her birth certificate and driver’s license as her ID.

Yes it is a whirlwind tour of the falls and surroundings, but we feel we have enough time viewing Niagara Falls to really enjoy it and appreciate it. We are led under falls where we can see and hear the thundering and cascading water. I can not describe to you what it looks and felt like. You just have to see this for yourself and see this you must. Put this on your "must" list. It is an unforgettable experience. It is awesome, overwhelming, magnificent, humbling, amazing, wondrous…and more. It is also a wet experience, but rain ponchos are provided.

 

 

 

I remember that my own grandparents took a train to Niagara Falls for their honeymoon as so many other couples have done.

On our tour we are also taken up by elevator to a high tower where we can look down on the town and falls. All fourteen of us pack into the small elevator for the trip up and down. We all fall silent during the ride and I know this silence is used for prayer!

We are taken on a drive through the city which has a casino and Las Vegas look after dark. We see the Niagara Power Plant, drive by the botanical gardens and get out to see the huge floral clock in the park.

After dark we are driven back to the falls so we can see the illumination. We get back to our hotel about 8:15 p.m. after dropping off the other tourists at their hotels.

Al and I take our suitcases upstairs, download our pictures into files on our computer and then go out to dinner……at 9:00 p.m.!!! We find an Indian Restaurant and dine on curried lamb with rice and Tandori bread. It is delicious. Back in our hotel room we go right to bed. We are "pooped".

 

October 7, Niagara Falls, NY to Mercer, PA
(Westminster College, New Wilmington, PA)

"Look at all those road apples on the road!"

This morning I wake up and right away take a shower and wash my hair. Then I get dressed and write in my journal. I was too tired last night after such a long day to do any of that.

"We still have time to catch the 9 a.m. tour on the American side if you want," jokes Al.

"I just want to get out of here," I reply.

We had a wonderful time at Niagara Falls but now it is time to get back to peace and quiet days. We leave Niagara Falls and try to find the Seaway Trail that follows along Lake Erie.

"We are on Route 90. Where does Route 90 go?" asks Al.

Our New York State road map is a shambles by now worn thin with tears, holes and cuts. I have to try to piece it together to find the driving directions Al needs.

We do find our way around Buffalo and onto the Seaway Trail. It a lovely scenic drive along Lake Erie with lots of good views of the water between the river front houses. In Dunkirk we pull over to visit the Dunkirk Lighthouse. It is still a functioning lighthouse and automated. From the lighthouse we get a full view of the lake shining under the morning sun.

Driving on we pass by many farms and through several towns such as Jamestown and Lilydale. How do you like that for a town name? Lilydale. It makes me smile.

At 1:50 p.m. we cross the state line into Pennsylvania and drive on towards Westminster College from where I graduated in 1965. The college is in New Wilmington which is North of Pittsburgh. Al and I returned to Westminster in 1975 for my 10th college reunion, but we have not been back since. Thirty eight years! I have not been back in 38 years. What changes will I find? I do contribute annually to the alumni fund and I do read the Westminster newsletter but I have not paid too much attention to the changes over the years. Today I am very excited at the prospect of returning for a visit.

 

We drive through the Allegheny National Forest following alongside the Allegheny River. What a beautiful ride through the forest. We stop now and then to take some pictures.

My excitement rises as old familiar town names start to appear on the signs and map: Warren, Oil City, Franklin, Titusville and Mercer. Now the terrain changes to the rolling hills and farmlands on both sides of the road. Yes, yes, I remember all this! It looks just the same to me.

We decide to stay in Mercer at the Comfort Inn. It is late afternoon but we decide to take the drive to the college now just to look at it.

It is one of the most exciting rides I have ever had as I anticipate the sight of my alma mater!

We are almost in Volant now.

"Look at all those ‘road apples’" Al says. "That’s how you know that horses have been here."

Horses. Oh yes, the Amish buggies of course. Westminster College is surrounded by Amish farms. We used to see the Amish come to town in their horses and buggies and it used to be a common sight. I can’t wait to see the Amish. Will I see any?

Here we are in Volant. This can’t be Volant! This is not the Volant I used to know. Volant used to be….a joke. It was so tiny…a nothing town. Just some houses…maybe one store. Certainly not a destination.

Now? The main street is filled with inviting shops to explore focusing on local handcrafts. I will have to return and check it out.

A couple more miles down the road and past more farms and we are at the corner of Market Street. The Tavern Restaurant is on our right. Sadly it looks closed and lonely. We make the turn onto Market Street and come to the corner of Market and Vine St. Then right before my eyes a horse and buggy crosses the intersection with a young Amish man holding the reigns. Maybe this is one of those courting buggies you hear about. I can not grab my camera in time and he is gone.

What memories this sight brings back. I think of my friend Bonnie Ludi and the stories she told me about taking a buggy ride with an Amish man. Bonnie are you listening to this?! Did you really do this? Well, I tell you here and now that the young Amish men are still coming to town to check things out. Nothing has changed.

We drive on and turn into Westminster College. Just as I make the turn and pass by Old ’77 the chimes in the bell tower ring out. It is 6:00 p.m. and the chimes sound exactly as I remember them. How many times I heard them and now I hear them again. All the familiar college buildings are there and some new ones. I will have to return tomorrow morning and walk the campus. I want to see it all.

On our way back through town you will never guess what happens. We get back to the corner of Market and Vine St. and the same Amish man crosses the intersection in his buggy going the opposite direction. But this time I am ready. I grab my camera and snap and I have it on film! (Well, digital..) How exciting is that.

June, Bonnie, Sue, Russ, Dottie, Sally, Sandy, Peggy, Sheila, Ginny…are you out there somewhere? Are you remembering your Westminster days with me?

 

October 8 - Westminster College/New Wilmington/Volant
The Amish

"Do you get wet in your buggy?"
"Not if I have one with the glass in front."

This is my day to visit Westminster College. I am very excited since I have not been back for 38 years! So many changes to see.

I stop in at the Neshannock Presbyterian Church that I remember so well. Pastor Dawe is no longer there, but I find the current pastor in his office alone and I have a nice chat with him. I tell Pastor Stone how much the church meant to me and having a church family to visit during my college years when I was away from home. He turns the lights on in the church sanctuary so I can take a picture of it as I leave.

Even though it pours rain today, I have a wonderful time poking inside the college buildings around the quadrangle. The first thing I do is to check into the alumni office and let them know I am here. The office is now located in an old yellow house at the far end of the campus behind Old ’77. They are very welcoming to me and give me a box of Westminster note paper. From there I stroll by Brown Hall, Ferguson Hall, Galbraith Hall, the Library, Old Main and…..where is the Student Union Building?! Where is the beloved "Tub"?

Where it used to be stands a large unfamiliar building. I ask some questions and discover that the Tub is still there…just hidden inside the newer additions. A female student is kind enough to lead me to the Tub room. It is good to see the fireplace room as I remember it.

Al and I drive uptown to find a place to eat lunch and we discover "Mugsies Coffee Shop." We have some delicious soup and sandwiches. Sitting at one of the little tables near us sits an Amish man by himself. His wide brimmed hat lies on the floor next to his seat and I speak with him.

"Do you get wet in your buggy?"
"Not if I have the one with the glass in front."
Silence.
"Do you have the one with the glass in front?"
"Yes."

I tell him we have just visited Niagara Falls. He says he has never seen them. I have the feeling that these Amish people do not travel away from home. They spend their lives working on their farms.

When the young man leaves, he leans heavily on a cane and limps out. Al and believe he must have had a farm accident or something to cause his injuries.

 

 

After lunch I walk up and down Market Street and record the names of the stores that are here today. They are:

Pizza Joe’s, Flowers On Vine gifts, Jimmy’s Corner Restaurant (which used to be Isaly’s until a year ago, South Beach Tanning, Mugsie’s Coffee Shop", Peter Barszczowski MD Family Practice, Pharmacy/Food Mart, Gypsy Costume Boutique, Hair/Nails, Amish Buggy Parking Lot, Health Food Store, Gilliland’s Market, Huntington Bank and the Quilting Bee Store. Inside Jimmy’s Corner Restaurant I am told that many alumni of Westminster come in and ask about the old "Isaly’s" and even past store workers come in.

The Tavern Restaurant has been closed five years now. There is talk of it reopening soon. I hope so.

Afterwards I visit the music department where I spent a lot of time when I was there. Practice room #13 is still there with the piano in it.

Next is a visit to booming downtown Volant! Seriously, there are many quaint little stores awaiting exploration and the Old Mill building is being restored. Al and I browse in and out of these inviting Amish shops and at "Teena’s Quilt Shop" which is in a building behind her farmhouse we make a few small purchases…samples of the Amish quilting.

 

 

 

 

The rest of the afternoon Al and I drive through back Amish roads. Using his GPS and software on our laptop computer, Al gives the directions and we are soon meandering through miles and miles of Amish farmlands, past Amish farmhouses and over an old covered bridge. At almost every turn of the country road we see a farmhouse with farm animals in the fields. Cows, horses, llamas, goats, chickens, ducks, cluster in the pastures. Every farm seems to be a Grandma Moses painting.

Even in the rain the Amish buggies are on the road. Farmers are out in their fields tending to their cornstalks and children hover next to the out buildings. When the children see us pass by they turn away and scoot inside the nearest building. There is little hope of seeing the Amish children.

 

I glance in the rear view mirror and notice an Amish buggy coming up fast on our rear. I keep moving along. A few minutes later I notice that a second buggy is behind us as well. The horses are pulling the buggies at a fast pace and they are behind us for a few miles. Finally I pull over to the side and let them pass us. This is stressful. I am glad they are in front of us now.

 

 

 

 

All of a sudden the miraculous happens. Out of a barn steps a tiny little Amish girl dressed from head to toe in the traditional Amish style. A small bonnet sits on her head and she is clothed in a long dress with black shoes. She sees us pausing on the road and comes down closer to the car. At first she looks at us frowning…wondering who we are. We wave to her and suddenly she grins at us. Her smile fills her whole face from ear to ear. We take her picture and are happy to have seen her. We think she must be about 2 years old.

I feel so content to experience these peaceful Amish folk once again. Some things never seem to change. Their unchanging ways seem to give me a sense of security and well being. All seems right with the world when I see the Amish living out their simple lives in the old ways.

Reluctantly we turn back onto highway 19 and find a place to eat.

At "The Grill" we sit in a cozy booth with a candle on the table and share a rack of lamb. Al has the turtle soup for an appetizer and I have a crab cake. Everything is delicious.

Now we are tired and ready for bed. It has been a long rainy day and a very good one. I don’t care that my hair is wet and I am damp all over. We had a wonderful day. God did it again. We asked Him to plan our day and He did. He is sooooo good!

 

October 9, New Wilmington, PA to Caldwell, Ohio

"I think I did it".
"It doesn’t look right. It looks pudgy."

Leaving New Wilmington we get on the highway at 8:20 a.m. and cross into Ohio at 8:40. We stop at the tourist information center and pick up an Ohio roadmap. Thus begins the battle of the road map. Honest to Pete we both have trouble folding the map today. The Pennsylvania map we have down pat. We just fold it accordion style every time and it works fine. You would think that every road map could be folded the same way. But of course it is not that easy. The Ohio roadmap folds entirely differently. We struggle with it all day and seldom get it right.

"I think I did it."
"It doesn’t look right. It looks pudgy. I will try it."
"Oh no! I zigged when I should have zagged!"

Oh well, it’s just one of those things.

Today we follow two byways in Ohio. The first is the Ohio and Erie Canal byway which takes us alongside the canal through the woods.

Then in the afternoon we pick up route 26 north in Marietta and start out on the Covered Bridge Byway to Woodsfield. This turns out to be a beautiful drive snaking through miles and miles of beautiful countryside and covered bridges in Wayne National Forest alongside the Little Muskingham River. We stop at each bridge and check it out. Today is warm and sunny, the perfect day for enjoying the back roads.

 

 

 

We try to find the old mill three miles down County Road 68, but I have my doubts we will find it. The road itself is scary enough since it is a single-lane unpaved road. We discover the old stone house of the miller, but the mill itself is no longer there. We make the drive back to Route 26. We narrowly miss hitting another car speeding by at a turn. I will stay off of single lane roads.

 

 

 

October 10 - Caldwell, Ohio to Lexington, Kentucky

"I’ve made my decision."

Today Al and I drive to Cincinnati to visit my cousin Katherine Heitzman Groll Harris. She is mother’s first cousin and so my first cousin once removed. Katherine is very dear to my sister and me. She is married but has no children of her own.

I am excited to see her again since I have not seen her since 1984.

Cincinnati is about a three hour drive from Caldwell and I check the guidebook to see what there is to see and do in Cincinnati.

I read to Al the list of museums we can visit and about the German Octoberfest.

" I have made my decision," Al tells me, " I choose to go to the Octoberfest."

We arrive in Cincinnati at 12:30 p.m., but where is 2324 Madison Ave.? This is where Katherine lives in a high rise apartment. We drive up and down Madison Ave. but never find the right apt. building. Finally I walk in to a high rise and say, "I give up. We are looking for 2324. Can you tell me where that is?"

"Yes, this is it! This is 2324!"

 

Katherine is happy to see us and we take her out to lunch at Bronte’s Book store.

After lunch Katherine gives us directions to see our family homes on Observatory Way. Both my great grandparents have lived here.

I am sorry we can not visit with cousin Katherine longer.

We cross the Ohio River on into Kentucky. Motels in Lexington are all filled. It seems there is a big football game this week-end and the roads are crowded with cars. After many tries we stop at the Best Western only to find three tour buses parked outside.

"Oh, no," I say. "This doesn’t look encouraging. This is our last try for a room."

"Let’s move on to the next town," Al says. "Or do you want to try one more time?"

"I will try one more time," I reply.

"I walk into the lobby and enquire about a room for the night at the registration desk."

"Yes, ma’am, we have a room."

What a great surprise. Thank You, Lord.

 

October 11 - Lexington, KY to Middlesboro, KY

"What a difference a river makes!"

Here we are in Kentucky and all of a sudden everyone around us sounds southern. All we did was cross over the Ohio River into Kentucky and everything around us changes. The people speak with a southern drawl.

"Yes, ma’am. Come again, you’all." The Episcopal churches have disappeared and so have the Methodist for that matter. In fact all we pass now on the road are Baptist churches!

The cost of living drops dramatically as we head south. The price of gas here is over a dollar cheaper than in Connecticut! The price of restaurant meals and hotel costs are much lower than in Connecticut. The meals themselves are different. At breakfast in our motel this morning every seemed to be eating biscuits and gravy. It was part of the Continental breakfast. And all we did was cross a river.

"What a difference a river makes," I say to Al and he agrees.

We drive the scenic route to Berea this morning passing through rolling hills and horse farms surrounded by zig zagging wood fences. It is very picturesque. The horses all look sleek and shiny. They are being bred here for the Kentucky Derby races.

We stop at a Shaker Village Museum that is on our route and take a walk around the area. The weather is about 80 degrees and Al is wearing shorts! The museum is not really open yet so we do not get to go into the Shaker houses. It is all so peaceful in this village.

We pass by a road sign which pictures an Amish horse and buggy.

"Oh no!!" exclaims Al. He can’t stand the thought of seeing another Amish buggy after all we saw at Westminster! No cause for alarm. We do not see any Amish in this area.

Berea and area in southern Kentucky is known for its folk handcrafts. This week-end happens to be Fall Festival in Berea and there is an outside craft fair where the local craftsmen demonstrate their crafts. We pay our $4.00 admission and wander around the exhibits. We admire the handmade crafts.

There is more of the same back in town. We drive a few blocks and park near Berea College. Here we visit Warren May who is a woodworker and makes dulcimers among other things such as handsome dressers and tables. His dulcimers are beautiful and pleasing to the ear.

We visit The Log House which is home to crafts made by Berea College students. I buy a 3 D wooden tic tac toe game.

This afternoon we take the Wilderness route and drive to Middlesboro.

It is pleasant scenery all the way with hills of changing autumn colors.

All of a sudden I see this green vine covering everything by the road! It looks very creepy to me and I guess that is what it does. It creeps and spreads all over everything.

"I think this is the kudzu vine I have heard about," Al says. "It is the vine that ate the South". I never heard of that before. Did you? It looks like a good subject for a horror movie to me. Creepy.

We are at the Holiday Inn tonight in Middlesboro.

 

October 12 - Middlesboro, Kentucky to Maggie’s Valley, NC

"In a log cabin?! Did you take a picture of it?"

Today is an absolutely stellar day. I mean it was like paradise today as close as I can imagine it. Everything is perfect. The sun is shining and white puffy clouds dot the sky. It is about 80 degrees and no jacket is needed.

Today we drive through the hills and mountains of Tennessee. We are in and out of Tennessee in one day. We don’t even spend the night here. Can you believe it?

The first town we come to is LaFolotte and we pass by a log cabin with a sign for the Episcopal Church in front of it.

"That is the first Episcopal Church we have seen in two days," Al says. "A log cabin! Did you take a picture of it?"

I did not. It just whizzed by on the road.

When we get to Knoxville, Kentucky we get our first glimpse of the Smoky Mountains! They look distanced and bluish. I can hardly wait to get a closer look.

 

 

 

We take the Cades Cove Loop Drive into the Smoky Mountains which the National Geographic guidebook says is an 11 mile drive, 1 hour. 1 hour!!! Right, but definitely not on Columbus Day week-end like it is today. Today everyone has the same idea we do. "Let’s go drive through Cades Cove."

That "one hour loop" takes us 2 ½ hours because we are in a steady stream of cars inching and snaking our way through at about 10 miles an hour with frequent stops. But in my mind that is the best possible way to see the Smoky Mountains. We just creep through in our cars and can savor the atmosphere and beauty spreading out before us. Beautiful hardly does the scenery justice. Majestic Smoky Mountains in the background as we wind our way around curves in a forest fused with the prime of autumn colors. We follow the "Little" river bubbling over the rocks alongside the road. Wide grassy fields open out before us and we stop to enjoy the view before going on.

We come to many pioneer buildings and stop to take a look. We appreciate the lives the pioneers live and what their way of life has to teach us.

Finally leaving Cades Cove we take the two hour drive through the Newfound Gap Road. This takes us up through the high Great Smoky Mountains where we stop many times to see the vistas. Wildlife is abundant and I am the first one to spot the bear running through the grass in the field! How exciting! It just runs through the field and into the woods on the other side. It is a small bear. The first one I have seen in the wild. Other wildlife we spot are turkeys and deer.

We pass along West Prong Little Pigeon River, Quiet Walkways, Mount LeConte, Campbell Overlook, Chimney Tops, Alum Bluffs Trail, Morton Overlook and Newfound Gap Overlook. Finally we descend into Oconaluftee Valley. We drive through Cheroke, NC which is very "honkytonk" looking to us. We keep driving until we come to Maggie’s Valley, NC and find a room for the night. Dinner at J. Arthur’s is delicious and we both have the steak gorgonzola salad. This is a day we shall never forget. The sights and scents of the pine woods will stay with us forever.

Thank You, God, for your marvelous creation and the opportunity to explore it at Your leading. Lead on, for we are following!

 

October 13, Maggie Valley, NC to Lillington, NC

"Oh, my God, it’s right outside the car window!"

Today I wake up in…..??? Each night now I journal exactly where we have been and where we are. In the morning I get up wondering where am I? I step outside our motel door to go to breakfast and I wonder, do I turn right or left? I am so disorientated each morning until I remember where I am. Each night in a different motel and every two nights in a different state is getting to me. I have to try and get a handle on who I am and where I am. As I wake up it comes back to me.

After checking out of our motel we head in our car to Asheville. It is about 8:30 in the morning when all of a sudden I see two or three hot air balloons in the distance outside our car window.

"Oh! I see air balloons," I shout in my excitement. Al looks but does not see them. He takes the first turn off the highway, but the road leads nowhere. He then starts the gps and gets the computer going to try to find a better road into the valley and try and find the balloons. We find what seems to be a good road, but have no luck and we turn around. On our way back to the main road, I glance outside my car window and, "Oh, my God! It’s right outside the car window!"

This time the hot air balloon looks like it is about 10 feet from the car with its rainbow colors gleaming in the sun. How beautiful it looks! Soon about three others join it. It is very exciting.

 

 

In Asheville we find the Stuart Nye workshop where the hand wrought silver jewelry that I love so much is made. I first saw Stuart Nye made silver jewelry in the By Way Shop in Chatham, Cape Cod where I worked one summer.

Since then I have bought many pieces and now I am thrilled to see how these nature inspired designs are made.

Judy introduces herself to us and tells us she has been working at Stuart Nye for 60 years! She remembers the By Way Shop although it has been closed for many years. Inside we see Jean and some others working on making some silver bracelets.

Jean shows me how she is hammering a delicate pine cone design into the thin slice of silver.

Al buys me the silver pine cone design bracelet and takes some pictures of me inside. He is such a dear and understands me.

 

We drive on to Lillington where we visit Dave Steegar, husband of my high school friend, Pat Kaiser. We stop for lunch in Morgenton at Groucho’s Deli.

It is wonderful to visit with Dave and his dog Bailey! He shows us to Campbell University where he teaches French and then we have dinner together in Rib Eye’s.

It has been a great day.

 

 

 

 

October 14, Lillington, NC to Kitty Hawk, NC

"They chose a man who had never taken a picture in his life. All John Daniels had to do was squeeze the bulb at the right time to capture this momentous time in history."

This morning Dave Steegar serves us a very nice breakfast of cereal, juice and baked cinnamon buns. We feel very much at home with him. Once again I remember what a wonderful husband and father he has been all these years and how he stood by his wife Pat and supported her faithfully with all his love as she slowly succumbed to MS. I am so blessed to know Dave and to be his friend. We do our laundry using Dave’s washer and dryer and I take a walk in the neighborhood as I wait for our clothes to dry.

Soon we are ready to go and we say our goodbyes to Dave and Bailey.

Bailey is a beautiful Golden Retriever and wonderful friend and companion for Dave.

 

 

 

Today Al and I make the drive to Kitty Hawk, North Carolina.

We go from the mountains of NC to the Outer Banks; mountains to ocean. It is a dramatic change and both are beautiful. Along the way we drive through the historical town of Plymouth. We also take the long drive on Wildlife Drive close to the Outer Banks. We keep out eyes out for alligators, red foxes and bears. A couple miles down the road and I see what must be a bear running from one side of the creek to the other and disappearing into the brush. It certainly looks like a bear to me even though I only part of the bear was visible.

We cross over two long bridges to Roanoke Island and then to Nags Head on the Outer Banks. It is easy to find the ocean, park the car and walk over. The Atlantic Ocean spreads out before us and the view is very beautiful.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Driving on we find the Wright Museum still open with an hour to go before closing so we park and enter the auditorium just in time for a half-hour lecture about the Wright Brothers, Wilbur and Orville. The talk is fascinating and clear.

"In twelve seconds and one hundred fifty feet, Orville and Wilbur Wright change the course of the world. The date is December 17, 1903. They are the first people to make a man made successful motorized air flight," our lecturer tells us.

"They choose John Daniels to take a photo of the historic moment at Kitty Hawk. John never took a photo in his life. All he had to do was squeeze the bulb to capture the event. John was so excited to witness the first motorized flight that he does not remember if he takes a photo or not." It turns out he did take the picture.

The story of Wilbur and Orville Wright is truly an incredible story. We are blessed to be here in Kitty Hawk and hear the story and see replicas of the Wright’s first airplanes.

Al wonders if Orville and Wilbur are related to Frank Lloyd Wright, the architect.

 

October 15 Day 15 Kitty Hawk, North Carolina- Yorktown, VA

"Whose beak can hold more than his belly can?"

This morning Al and I revisit the Wright Museum to see the exhibits we did not have time to see last night. Before we do this Al and I stand overlooking the Atlantic Ocean one more time. Our Days Inn is right on the oceanfront and our room only costs $69.00 a night. It is unbelievable.

Once again I find the Atlantic coastline beautiful and mesmerizing. The wind is up and many surfers are taking advantage of the good surfing conditions. There goes one now. See how he catches the wave just right and glides in with the wave forming a curl behind him. I could stand here a long time...

Inside the exhibit hall of the Wright Museum is posted a poem written by Ogden Nash. It states,
"What a strange bird is the pelican,
Whose beak can hold more than his belly can."

 

Al takes the long walk up to the top of the hill where the Wright Brothers did their flying experiments on their kites and gliders. A tall monument stands on this hill, a fitting tribute the contribution made to us all by Wilbur and Orville.

 

 

 

 

Soon we are on our way over the border in to Yorktown, VA to visit our good friends Bill and Barb Luke, previously from our church St. Davids in Conn.

We pass Currituck and stop to have our picnic lunch at the ferry landing. Our picnic table overlooks the York River. The Indians named it the 'Pamunkey' River.

We drive on through Newport News and soon we are driving down the Lukes long driveway.

We have not seen the Lukes in many years nor have we seen their new house. It is really good to see Bill and Barb again. Although they have an "empty" nest right now, they are a family of four. Their 'children' are "Buffy"and "Opie", the cutest little puppy dogs you would ever hope to see. Fluffy and white.

Their home is lovely...contemporary with lots of windows letting in the sunshine. Barb has her own artists workroom studio so she can do her water painting.

The Lukes take us to the York River where we can walk around and then have dinner in the Duke of York hotel overlooking the River. What a great way to end the day.

 

October 16, Yorktown,VA to Montgomery Village, MD

"Do you think we can afford the silver bracelet? $7.00 is so expensive."

When Al and I were first married we made a car trip to Williamsburg, VA bringing my dad's tripod and Graflex camera with us. The year was about 1967. We had a wonderful time walking the streets, taking black and white pictures with the old camera and watching the colonial demonstrations. In the silversmith shop Al buys me a silver hoop bracelet that was made in the shop. I am thrilled. Should we have spent so much money on a bracelet? The cost was $7.00

Today we decide to visit Willliamsburg one more time. It is a short drive from Bill and Barb's home along a scenic parkway which follows the York River. I am wearing the same bracelet Al bought me in 1967. I wear it often.

As we walk the same streets and step into the Colonial trade shops, we see many changes over the years. We are frankly disappointed in what we see. So many of the shops are commercialized now. The focus seems to be the selling of goods from all over - not just things made in Williamsburg any more.

The demonstrators are assigned to a small space in the corner of the store and some of them do not talk about their roles in history unless you ask them a specific question. Some of the houses on Main Street are closed. We think maybe Williamsburg may have a hard time finding interpreters for these places. Maybe they have a lack of funds to keep the homes and Colonial taverns open.

Despite these disappointments, Williamsburg is beautiful Colonial village and everywhere you turn outbuildings and backyard gardens bordered with white picket fences beckon. We are happy to be able visit once again.

We drive on and tonight we are visiting our friends Pete and Janet Glasz in Montgomery Village, MD. They too are past parishoners from St. David's. It is wonderful to visit with them. Pete's home cooked spaghetti and meatballs is delicious.

 

 

October 17, Montgomery Village, MD to Freeland, MD

Joan Hayes and I have been buddies since high school. We have had many great times and adventures together and today Al and I visit with her and her new husband, Tom Hughes, in their condominium in Rockland, Delaware.

Joan cooks us a delicious lunch with homemade crabcakes. Afterwards we are taken on a little tour of the area. This is Dupont territory in beautiful country.

 

 

 

 

Later on Al and I drive on to Shrewsbury, PA where we meet our niece Debbie Light at the Christian school where she teaches third grade. We are glad to have the opportunity to see where Debbies lives and works. It is obvious that the other teachers love Debbie and we know that Debbie is doing a good job as a teacher. She gives us a tour of her school.

Loading her books and guinea pig and cage into her car she says, "Follow me." She leads us to a nice family diner where we treat her to supper.

Then we again follow her to the home where she rents an apartment. This is in Freeland, Maryland. The surrounding countryside is very beautiful, dotted with farms and farm animals. We visit and play scrabbble with her.

 

 

 

 

October 18, Freeland, MD to Uncasville, CT (home!)

"The whipped cream shot right past my face and hit the Williamsburg wallpaper."

Dwight Beucler and I have been friends since early childhood in Leonia, NJ. Our parents were best friends.

Soon after the pressurized whipped cream canisters were invented, my father and mother invited Dwight's father and mother to dinner at our house in Leonia. My father patiently demonstrated at the table how to use the new whipped cream container and then he passed it over to Dwight's father, Doug Beucler. Doug's wife Margery was sitting next to him at the table.

Doug didn't quite get it. Instead of pointing the nozzle downward towards his jello, he pointed the nozzle sideways. Margery explains what happened next like this.

"The whipped cream came shooting out of the nozzle and it flew right past my face. It hit the Williamsburg wallpaper and made a mess!" We have laughed over this mistake ever since.

Today Dwight and his wife Barbie live in a restored carriage house in Villanova, PA. This is in the Philadelphia area. We stop in and visit them on our way back to Uncasville. Their home is beautiful and it is fascinating to see the carriage house doors still in place and how such an open airy carriage house can be turned into a home.

We arrive home later on at the end of the day. We have been gone for two and a half weeks. We have seen so many new places, followed so many winding country roads and visited with many family and friends.

God's creation is so very beautiful and abundant. Thank You, for the opportunity to explore the byways and be with family and friends. Thank You for all our friends. Thank You for returning us safely to our own home and hearth. Thank You!